Enjoy the peaceful village of Agathia in East Crete...with your dog

Agathia in the 1960s (view from village towards Kastri and Xiona Beach)

 Ok, so it doesn't look exactly like this anymore...

Agathia in 2010 (view from Palaikastro-Xiona Beach road, facing Mt Petsofas)

But it is still a lovely, peaceful village.

I've written a few posts lately about this area of East Crete, so I'm not going to wax lyrical about the changing colours of the mountains as the sun sets, or the amazing contrast of bright blue sea and the silver-green of the endless olive groves...  well, maybe I will, a little.

I love this village for its natural surroundings, but architecturally it's not the prettiest of the Cretan villages. Of the traditional style of architecture, there are a few smaller, single storey houses, one or two crumbling mud brick walls and a small and pretty church.

Cafe-Taverna Anatoli, Agathia

However, there are a couple of good tavernas and raki 'bars', with great views, which have welcomed us with our dogs on several occasions.

The Cafe-Taverna Anatoli is a great, cheap option, serving the Cretan spirit raki with mezedes, and a limited but reasonable selection of meals. This summer we paid just 4€ there for a half litre carafe of wine and a small meze (cheese, olives, tomatoes, cold meats).

I just said I wasn't going to write too much about the views and the surroundings, but I have to. It's the best thing about the Anatoli. From the terrace at the front, you have a truly wonderful view - out over a sea of olive trees, down to the distinctive Kastri mountain at Xiona Beach, and in the other direction, up to Mount Petsofas and the mountains that separate Agathia from Zakros to the south.

View of Kastri from the Anatoli Cafe-Taverna

Mount Petsofas (from the Anatoli)

The owners were very friendly and welcoming when we asked whether we could bring Sage in too, and the other customers spent some time petting her and asking all about her.

On the terrace of the Anatoli Cafe-Taverna

The Anatoli is open throughout the year, but if you are there in winter it may be a good idea to let them know in advance if you are planning to eat there.

The Meltemi Taverna

Moving on, another taverna in Agathia that welcomed us with Sage (my friends also took Garby there), was the Meltemi. This taverna does not have the  wonderful views that the Anatoli does, but the food there is great. I have to say, even though I'm not a fan myself, that their speciality is the traditional Cretan dish - snails.

Garby at the Meltemi, waiting for leftover snails

The Meltemi serves a good variety of food, also fairly reasonably priced. We each paid about 10€ for a  dinner of many small plates - salads, chips, meat, cheeses, and quite a lot of wine.

Staff at the Meltemi were fine about us bringing Sage to dinner with us, under the covered terrace of the taverna.  They told me that they were also open during the winter, and that I could bring Sage inside the taverna, providing that she was well behaved, and we sat out of the way of the other customers.

Sage at the Meltemi

I have also stayed with Sage at Agathia, at the Filoxenia Rent Rooms (see post: http://bit.ly/InwK29)

These rent rooms, near the entrance to the village from the road from Palaikastro, are quite spacious, very clean, have private bathroom, fridge and tv, and, most importantly, have balconies with views down to Kastri and beyond to Kouremenos Beach. It's lovely to wake up and have coffee on the balcony, and watch the windsurfers out in the bay.

A final note, this village is a great base if you want to explore the east end of the island. From here you can get to Zakros in less than half an hour, to the palm beach at Vai, to Toplou Monastery and Siteia, not to mention the numerous beautiful and deserted beaches all along this part of the coast. 

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Eat at To Votsalo, Kouremenos Beach... with your dog

View of To Votsalo, from the beach road

To Votsalo (The Pebble) is a lovely taverna just behind the beach at Kouremenos. The same family own Cafe Stavedo (Downwind) next door, as well as the nearby Glaros Rent Rooms (The Seagull).

Cafe Stavedo was closed when we went by last night - I suppose mid-September the majority of the tourists have already packed up and left this area - but I did go there last year once or twice, with Sage, and nobody seemed to mind. This place stays open late in the evening during the summer, and usually fills up after people have left the tavernas (or during the afternoons for coffee).

I had a lovely response to my email, asking whether dogs are permitted in the Glaros Rent Rooms: Yes, they are, no restrictions on size, just as long as they don't make too much noise (fair enough!). I haven't seen the rooms, but I do know some people who love it there and return year after year. Glaros is in a great location for Kouremenos beach, windsurfing, several great cafes and restaurants. See my previous post: http://travelcretewithyourdog.blogspot.gr/2013/09/my-morning-walk-from-palaikastro-to.html

So, we went to have dinner at To Votsalo taverna. This taverna is also closing soon for the winter, so I'm glad I got there in time for a last meal down by the sea at Kouremenos.

I should say that this place would probably be rated 'dog tolerant' rather than 'dog friendly'; it seemed the staff were a bit apprehensive about Sage, and although they were fine about us bringing her, they didn't seem to be exactly 'dog lovers'.

The decor of To Votsalo is simply and beautifully done - with lanterns hanging from the trees, colourful chairs arranged around just the right amount of tables to seem full but not packed in, cushions on benches, flowers in pots... And to top all of this, you are less than 5 metres away from a long, sandy bay that ends with the distinctive squashed pyramid shape of Kastri mountain.

The food was great. They serve all the typical grilled meats and fish, as well as some 'specials' such as okra in tomato sauce, and oven-cooked lamb.  I would say the prices are higher than in the nearby villages at Palaikastro and Angathias, but not too bad (we paid 30 Euros for okra, meatballs, salad and wine).

This taverna is closed in the winter, and opens around Easter. Definitely worth a visit if you find yourself hungry, in East Crete... with your dog.

You can find photos and information on how to get there on this website:  http://www.palekastroholidays.gr/index.html

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Eat with a sea view at Studios Stavris, Frangokastello... with your dog

At the taverna/beach bar of Studios Stavris

On a trip back from the Sfakia region of Chania, we returned to Heraklio via the south road, and stopped off for lunch at a place just outside of Frangokastello. We drove by the castle, looking for a taverna that appealed to us, that would also be dog-friendly (we had two dogs with us at this time), and turned back round to return to the area a little away from the main beach, where it seemed quieter.

We turned off the Hora Sfakion- Frangokastello road at a signpost pointing down to the sea which read Stavris Studios. Here we found a small, relaxed taverna, with tables right on the beach if you want to sit under the shade of the tamarisk trees, near the sea.

I didn't get to see the studios themselves, but I contacted the owners to ask whether they permit dogs in the rooms. They sent a quick and friendly response to my email, saying that dogs are welcome in the studios, and that there are no restrictions about size or breed of dog. The only rule that they have is that dogs should be on the leash when outside the accommodation. Here is the link to their website: http://www.studios-stavris-frangokastello-crete.com

There were a few families around, presumably staying at the studios there. I have heard that this is quite a popular destination for families with young children, which may mean it is not ideal for dogs. Anyway, we kept the dogs on their leads, and there was plenty of space for us to sit a little away from the others on the beach.

We took it turns to swim while the other sat with the dogs. The sea there is fantastically blue and clear; there are some rocks to snorkel around and you almost don't need a mask to be able to see fish swimming by.

The beach by the taverna at Studios Stavris

Prices at the taverna were very reasonable - we had quite a simple lunch (salad, sausage, fava, a beer or two) and paid less than 20 Euros between us.

This beach is about 3 minutes drive from the Venetian castle that gives the area its name. The castle was built in the late 14th century. It was constructed to defend the Venetians against pirates and local rebels, and was named the Castle of St. Nikitas. The derogatory name 'Frangokastello' (Castle of the Franks, or  Catholic foreigners) used by the locals eventually became adopted by the Venetians themselves.

The castle has a simple, but dramatic rectangular shape, with crenellated towers at each corner. Architecturally, it is a very unusual sight for Crete, particularly as it perched against the blue seas and sand dunes of the south coast.

The castle at Frangokastello

The castle is famous for its bloody history during the long war of independence against the Ottomans. In 1828, led by Hadzi Michali Daliani, the Greeks took a stand against the Turks at Frangokastello. A massacre followed, and the martyrdom of Daliani and his soldiers entered the history of the castle and its surrounds. It is said that each year, at dawn on the 17th of May, the ghosts of those who lost their lives at Frangokastello can be seen marching out of the castle. These ghosts are called 'drossoulites', dew shadows.

Also of interest in this area are the early Christian Basilica of Agios Nikitas and Agios Astratigos, both founded in the later 6th century AD. The Basilica of Agios Nikitas preserves a mosaic floor with geometric patterns and scenes of animals, as well as a later (13th century) church, built above the ruins of the older, decorated with wall paintings.  A later church (14th century) was also constructed above the Basilica at Agios Astratigos, dedicated to the Archangel "Archistratigos, commander in chief. Unfortunately, little now remains of this church. A useful summary of these sites can be found on the Explore Crete website: http://www.explorecrete.com/crete-west/EN-Frangokastello-Basilicas.html

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Free-camping or just a day at the beach... with your dog

Sage admiring the view over Peristeres beach

In a recent post I described the dog-friendly hotels and tavernas in the area of Polirizos, below Rodakino village (4/8/2013). While we were there we explored the nearby beaches, which were easier to visit with Sage than the beach at Polirizos (less people, more space etc), and would be perfect for free-camping with your dog.

From the western end of Polirizos a dirt road continues on round to Peristeres beach. Alternatively, you can take the short footpath up over the rocks. This path needs a bit of scrambling at the end, but the views from the top are breathtaking. The beach seems endless and deserted, with brilliantly blue, cool sea, a few tamarisk trees, and small, wooded mountains sheltering it from behind.

Sage vs a vulture on the path from Polirizos beach

On our first afternoon there, we went exploring up over the rocks. It was a nice, discrete place to let Sage pee away from tavernas and beaches. The path is short, but quite lovely - full of trees, goats, thyme... we saw a vulture too, a huge bird with massive wing-span, really majestic. Luckily Sage was not tempted to chase it.

There were a few people on Peristeres Beach, but walking five minutes further down from the small cantina at the start of the beach, there was nobody and we could let Sage off the lead to run around and have a swim.

The cantina was great too, really relaxed with simple but good food, fantastic views, nice music, reasonable prices. There were a few families there, and a couple had brought their dogs with them too. We kept Sage on her lead there, mostly because I don't like her begging from other tables and causing a nuisance.

We stayed there until it was almost dark, then hurried back over the rocks to Polirizos. Again, we had to keep her on her lead for some of the way, until we got past the curious goats who wouldn't get out of our way (well, it's their home I suppose).

Dog-friendly cantina at Peristeres Beach

On the second day, after a lazy morning at Polirizos sheltering from the heat, we walked round to Peristeres Beach via the dirt road. This way is definitely easier, but does take longer, and no vultures.

We walked all the way along the beach until we came to Agia Marina Beach, which is perhaps even more deserted, unspoilt, and perfect than Peristeres. It takes its name from the small church of Agia Marina, tucked away in the tamarisk trees just off the beach.


Agia Marina is perfect for free-camping. It's a lovely sandy beach with the cool, clear, deep
water typical of the south coast of Crete. There are several areas where the tamarisk trees have created little shelters, right on the beach, just the right size to protect a tent. There are also large rocks to use as shelter from the sun or wind. The dirt road continues on as far as the church, then winds on up inland.

We continued right to the end of the beach, and found a small cove to swim at. Here the track ends with a fence and we didn't explore any further round.

Swimming at Agia Marina Beach

On the second evening, I wanted to stay for an evening swim at Agia Marina. As the sun is going down, the rocks glow a really vivid orange colour, and the sea turns pinky-purple. It faces the wrong direction for dramatic sunsets, but you don't need one - the changing colours of the scenery there are truly spectacular.

We stopped at the small taverna hidden away right at the end of Peristeres Beach (towards Agia Marina) - the Taverna tou Drakou. I loved this place. It was so small and sleepy, with a really nice hushed atmosphere. They served a limited menu, but the food was really good. They were very welcoming to Sage, and there was another family who came in to dine with their dog. 

I can't recommend this place enough, for anyone 

who likes to sit and relax with a drink, or something to eat, and to be surrounded by mountains and sea, and very little else.

The owner was very hospitable, to us and to Sage, and tried to give us her torch when we left, to find our way back in the dark. We managed to find the way back along the road easily enough anyway.

You can find descriptions of these beaches on the useful website: http://www.cretanbeaches.com

 

In the Taverna tou Drakou at the end of
Peristeres Beach

The day we left for Heraklion, we made a quick stop for a swim at Korakas Beach, to the east of Polirizos. This beach is more organised, with umbrellas and sun loungers. On this particular day, the wind had picked up, so there were not many people there. However, with so many beautiful beaches to go with your dog to in this area, Korakas is probably not the easiest option. 

Korakas Beach

I wrote on my post about Polirizos that this area is paradise unless it's windy... if you are planning to go free-camping, do check the



weather forecast, as north winds play havoc on the south coast beaches, making camping, or

even just sitting on the beach, quite unpleasant. 

I also feel obliged to say that free-camping is not permitted on most Cretan beaches, and I have heard reports that this year they are being quite strict about this.... If you are not inclined to risk a windy night in a tent, or a potential run in with the authorities, there are many lovely dog-friendly rent rooms and hotels in the area that you can use as a base, to discover this beautiful area (see post 4/8/2013).

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Eat, drink, swim, sleep...HOLIDAYS in Rodakino... with your dog

Athenians holidaying in Rodakino with their 2 dogs

We recently had a short break in one of the most dog-friendly places I've found so far in Crete. Searching the internet, we found a few small hotels/rent rooms in the area of Rodakino (south of Rethymnon) that accept pets in their rooms, and we picked one at random. Our hotel - Oasis - was just above the small beach (Polirizos) below the village of Rodakino.
Their website has photos of the rooms and views etc:  http://www.oasisapts.gr/index_2.html
but we booked through Booking.com which has the additional information about pets: http://www.booking.com/hotel/gr/oasis-studios-rodakino.en.html 

Pets are allowed on request. No extra charges.

The owners of the rooms were extremely friendly and made us (and Sage) very welcome there. They invited us to drink raki with them, and for coffee, and they were very sweet about Sage.

Sage on our balcony,
Oasis Apartments, Polirizos

The room was fine, very clean, with great views from the balcony over Polirizos and the mountains to the east. I think the prices were a bit high, we paid 135E for 3 nights for the 'studio', but this was two single beds pushed together, and a tiny kitchen with a hob that needed one hour to heat water for tea in the morning.

Polirizos beach is mercifully free of sun beds and umbrellas; if you're going to spend the day there you need to bring your own. Alternatively, you can spend the whole day in the lovely taverna Nikos & Anna, as we did, which is right at the end of the beach with access to the sea. This was perfect for hiding from the sun, drinking a cool beer, and popping down to the quietest part of the beach where we wouldn't disturb anyone with our dog, for a swim. Nikos and Anna also has rooms to rent: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Taverna-rent-rooms-nikos-anna/261064747307153
Again, on Booking.com they advertise that pets are allowed, with no extra charges: http://www.booking.com/hotel/gr/nikos-anna-rooms.en.html
I met a group of Athenians who had brought their 2 dogs with them on holiday, who said they had been coming to Rodakino for years and staying at Nikos & Anna rent rooms. They told me their golden retriever goes for a dip in the sea 5-6 times a day while he's there!

In the taverna Nikos & Anna, Polirizos

We were lucky that there were not many people on the beach below the taverna, and everyone there was very friendly to Sage. (The waiters didn't even seem to mind when Sage drank too much sea water and vomited on the cement floor by our table... we cleaned it up quickly and luckily nothing was said!) However, a short path and scramble over the rocks takes you to another, larger beach where there are even fewer people and no hotels (see later post), and if you continue a little round the coast you will find still more small coves and quiet beaches to escape to.

We ate at the taverna a couple of times too - their menu is varied and reasonably priced (we paid 7 euros for a large pizza, 6.5 euros for a plate of small sardines etc.)

Swimming at Polirizos below Nikos & Anna taverna

A small note, there were a few stray cats around the taverna, fed by various animal-loving guests. They didn't cause too many problems, but one in particular looked like he could give Sage a good fight if he wanted.


Even the posher looking Polirizos Hotel, set back slightly from the beach with imposing looking entrance and beautiful lush gardens, turns out to be dog-friendly (again free of charge, just let them know when you book that you will have your dog with you). The prices for this hotel turned out to be very reasonable to, about the same as for Oasis, with breakfast included! I didn't have time to check out the taverna, but passing by one evening it looked busy (in a good way), with a relaxed atmosphere. All the apartments and hotels advertise that they have WiFi.
http://www.booking.com/hotel/gr/polyrizos.en.html

An important warning: we were very lucky with the weather, for the three days we were there it was not windy at all. Everyone told us, however, that for the three weeks prior to our visit, it had blown a gale - so much that it was painful and unpleasant to sit on the beach. Our last day the wind picked up again, and I could see what they meant! North winds causes the most problems on the south coast - it may be worth checking the weather forecast if you have the luxury of a last minute holiday. Otherwise, be aware that North winds can cause havoc on southern coast beaches, especially during July and August.

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Enjoy the old city and harbour of Chania... with your dog

We have a cameo appearance in today's blog from Betty, a 3 year old Kokoni. Betty was adopted from a Cretan dog shelter by some friends of mine. She pretty much goes everywhere with them these days.

Betty at my friend's art exhibition in the Giali Tzamisi Mosque, Chania harbour

Although based in Heraklion, Crete, she recently spent quite a bit of time in Chania at my friend's art exhibition which was housed in the 17th century Giali Tzamisi Mosque, on the harbour. An article, in Greek, about his work and exhibitions can be found here: http://madeincreta.gr/el/article/ένας-αυστραλός-ήρθε-στην-κρήτη-κι-έμεινε

Looking out towards Chania harbour lighthouse
from the mosque

Being quite a bit smaller than Sage, and white and fluffy, it is probably true that places which would turn a blind eye to Betty coming in might not tolerate larger, more conspicuous dogs.

Betty has stayed at the Morfeas Nest Rent Rooms, near to the old harbour, on two occasions.
http://www.morfeasnest.gr/home/
The rooms look nice, there is a roof terrace with views of the old town, free Wi-Fi, and they advertise on their website that:
Pets are allowed on request with no extra charges. 
Prices vary according to season, so best to contact them for more information.

I have also been around the old town in Chania with Sage. One afternoon in September we sat outside at the last cafe around the Venetian Harbour, opposite the lighthouse. This is the quietest, calmest part of the harbour, and a little easier to find an out of the way spot. I'm not sure how it would be, however, to walk along the harbour in the height of summer with a Sage-sized dog.

I would really appreciate any suggestions of dog-friendly hotels/hostels/rent rooms, as well as tavernas and bars in Chania. Please add a comment, and I'll go and investigate this summer with Sage.

Stay at the Philoxenia Rooms, Agathias...with your dog

There are so many lovely places to stay in this part of East Crete. You could stay up in the larger village of Palaikastro, or down by the beach at Kouremenos, or hidden away among the olive groves that separate the villages from the sea... I will be spending all of September in this area this year, so I'll fill this section out with lots more details then.

For the time being, the only place I have stayed in the Palaikastro area, with my dog, was at the Philoxenia Rooms in the beautiful village of Agathias. Unfortunately, I don't have a better photo, so you'll just have to take my word for it.

Entrance to Philoxenia Rooms, Agathias, Palaikastro
Photo: http://www.eastcrete-holidays.gr

The rooms are very clean, a good size, and reasonable (I think we paid about 35 Euro per night in high season), with air conditioning, fridge, tv. They also have some of the nicest views in the whole of East Crete (in my opinion, that is). From the balconies on the backside of the building, you have views out over a sea of silvery-green olive trees, to the characteristic boxey shape of Kastri mountain down at the shore, and the long sweep of Kouremenos bay.

View of Kastri from Chiona Beach

I have known the owners here for a few years, and they are a really lovely, friendly couple. They were absolutely fine about Sage staying in the room, and made a bit of a fuss of her whenever we saw them. I don't know if it's a policy to allow pets, but they were very accommodating and relaxed about it.

We had a really nice few days staying here. I love the beaches in this area, there are so many small coves and places to escape to, as well as the larger, more well-known beaches such as Vai and Itanos which are close by. The village of Agathias is much more beautiful than Palaikasto, with some of the traditional old houses remaining. The streets are narrow and the whole village is balanced on a steep hill - it's exhausting just going back to your room at the end of an evening.

From here you can climb up to the Minoan sanctuary of Petsofas, for some really breathtaking views of the mountains and bays around Palaikastro and down the coast to Zakros. You can also visit the Minoan settlement of Palaikastro, which is just off the unmade road from Xiona Beach.

Again, I'll be posting a lot more information about this area while I'm staying there, as there are so many places to explore in that area. I just wanted to include these Rent Rooms now at the start of summer, for anyone looking to stay in this area...with their dog

E-mail : philoxenia_rooms@yahoo.gr
Tel: +30 28430 61615

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Swim, eat, drink, relax at Ligres Beach

OK, OK, I might have said that the Taverna and Rent Rooms Agia Fotini were the most relaxing, peaceful place on Crete... but honestly, I can't decide. I love this place too. http://www.ligres.gr

View from Ligres Beach Taverna 

I haven't stayed at Ligres Beach Rent Rooms, but we came here for breakfast during a camping trip last year, and it was wonderful! They have a great menu. For breakfast, I had a huge plate of mixed seasonal fruit with yogurt, juice and coffee for about 7 or 8 Euros. I didn't get to try lunch/dinner, but  as well as a 'typical Cretan menu' they also serve fish, often caught on their own fishing trips. Most importantly, it has a lovely atmosphere and the most beautiful, never-ending views over the Libyan sea...

Another guest enjoying dog-friendly Ligres Beach
Rent Rooms and Taverna

The rooms have air conditioning, fantastic views, and even in high season are very reasonably priced (35 Euro per night June-August). And the best part? They are dog-friendly. And thoughtful too. They offered us a room on the ground floor, to have easy access to the room and, I guess, not to get in the way of other guests.

Hiding in a small cave for shade

A further consideration is that there is very little shade on the beach (or any of these south coast beaches). I think the best way to spend the day would be a morning swim, a long breakfast, maybe a mid morning swim, then a very long lazy lunch of fish, a siesta, a slow afternoon waking up drinking coffee, and a final hour or so on the beach when it is not too hot...

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Stay and eat at Rooms and Taverna Panorama... with your dog

Rooms and Taverna Panorama should probably be classified as 'dog-tolerant' rather than 'dog-friendly'.

View over Elafonissi Beach from Taverna Panorama 

Last summer, having spent years enjoying the incredible, empty beaches of East Crete, I decided I had to explore the West a little. It was a bad choice to turn up at Elafonissi - one of the busiest beaches on the island - at midday, in late July. We had already been camping the night before. We had a long, sticky drive from the south coast at Rethymnon. We'd had several rows and a long bitter silence. It was just one of those trips.

So when we arrived at the overcrowded car park, hot and tired and annoyed, I just wanted to check in to a room as quickly as possible. 

We went to the nearest Rent Rooms that we found driving back up from the beach. We left Sage in the car when we went to ask if dogs were permitted, which was probably a bit sneaky of us. They said 'yes'. However, there was a look of horror on the faces of the staff when we turned up in the Taverna a few minutes later, with Sage. They told us that they didn't usually allow such BIG dogs to stay in the rooms... they hadn't realised she would be so BIG...etc etc. We stayed, but I was feeling really uncomfortable. Everyone in the taverna was staring at us. Sage barked at a cat and we had looks of disapproval all round and a warning from the waitress.

View from the Taverna Panorama

The food was fine. The views were amazing. The taverna was pretty with lots of plants and interesting decor. We went to have a long sleep in the nice, clean room with air conditioning (55 Euros per night). I was feeling better.

Website for Rooms and Taverna Panorama: http://elafonisi-village.gr/?gtlang=en

Our exploration of the beach was similarly uncomfortable. We turned up quite late in the afternoon, with Sage on the lead. It's true that there were clearly "NO DOGS" signs all over the place, so we were pushing it. But we wanted to pass quickly and quietly through the sun-bed part of the beach, to go and sit over on the rocks far from anyone else. The guys in the cafes along the beach were shouting at us, threatening to call their managers, generally tutting and swearing and telling us to leave. 

Sage enjoying the sunset from the rocks to the west of Elafonissi Beach

This is a very special beach with a brilliant blue lagoon, white sand consisting of perfect tiny shells, sand dunes with lilies and junipers, and is also a nesting place for the endangered species of sea turtle - the careta careta. All of this considered, it's not a good place to bring your dog. Have a look at the description on the Cretan Beaches website:  http://www.cretanbeaches.com/Beaches/Chania/elafonissi/

We walked on a couple of km around the coast from the lagoon, collecting sea salt from the rocks. Here we could relax a little, there was nobody around, and we watched a beautiful sunset. It could have been any patch of rocky coast anywhere on the island however, I hardly got to see the lagoon or the perfect shelly sand at all. 

Back at the Taverna Panorama that evening. I can't even remember what happened (I think another minor indiscretion with the cat), and more nervous and annoyed glances from the staff, more tuts and warnings to be careful...I felt like I'd walked in with a bear or something. This caused another argument between us as tempers were frayed. I just get tired of feeling like I am committing some terrible crime by being out and about with my dog. 

The following day we walked the other way along the rocks (past the angry swearing cafe guys) and found another quiet spot on the rocks. It wasn't easy to swim here, too many rocks in the water, but I managed to float around a bit and cool off, looking at beautiful Elafonissi in the distance.

I definitely recommend going to see this beach. I don't recommend going with a large dog unless you have found accommodation that is fully dog-friendly in advance. Or maybe with a smaller, 'cuter' dog than Sage. 

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Eat, drink, swim, sleep at Taverna Agia Fotini, Kerames... with your dog

At the end of summer 2011, I joined the hiking group of Heraklion for a walk along the south coast of Crete from Preveli Beach to Agios Pavlos. I was blown away. It was more or less an endless strip of beautiful beaches, one after the other. All almost empty. All with amazing clean blue seas. We climbed massive sand dunes, saw spectacular rock formations... I couldn’t wait to come back and spend some time in this area.

 

Beach at Agia Fotini
Photo: http://www.cretanbeaches.com

Beach at Katsouni
Photo: http://www.cretanbeaches.com

Sand dunes at Agios Pavlos
Photo: http://www.cretanbeaches.com

Last July I took the first chance I could, and came for a long weekend camping on a beach in the area of Agia Fotini. This is a magical place. There is nothing there, just a couple of houses set back a bit from the coast, and perhaps the best tavern in Crete. This is the Taverna (and rent rooms) Agia Fotini, Kerames, Rethymno, a completely hidden treasure. It is a very simple place, with 4 rooms to rent, a basic menu, access to a small beach. But there is something about the atmosphere, the total relaxation, complete escape from everyday life. There is nothing to do except walk, swim, eat, relax………

Have a look at their website:  http://www.agiafotini.net

Taverna Agia Fotini

At the Taverna with Sage

Vicki Perakis, the owner, tells me they have no problem with allowing animals in the rooms. She very sensibly set out the ‘rules’ – not to let pets up on the beds, and to take care when coming and going due to their own dog, Zara. I must admit, I remember Zara – she got a bit territorial when we turned up with Sage, and they had a bit of a set to. This is probably a particular issue as they are both female and used to being the boss.

We camped on a nearby beach, due to our budget. We still laugh when we look at the photos, and remember that although we had a wonderful, romantic get away together, it was like sleeping through a tornado – the winds can really get up on the south coast. I woke up screaming with the tent pressed down on my face, at least 4 or 5 times through the night, as I dreamt I was being suffocated in my sleep. I was, more or less. In the end I slept outside with Sage.

Our tent, in the shade of the rocks

Sage keeping guard while I was sleeping 

The beach where we camped was nothing special, but it was deserted. There was one house built up overlooking the cove, but we just chose to believe there was nobody there. A huge rock divides this cove from the next patch of coast, and this provides shade for a large part of the day. There were also a few trees at the other end, that we cowered under for an hour or so.

Because of the fairly frequent strong winds, I would recommend the rent rooms. Also because they are lovely. 

As I was warned, dog owners should take care when coming and going through Zara's territory. However, the owners are dog lovers, and are very welcoming to animals.   

This place is really in the middle of nowhere. You will need a car, and buy any provisions that you might need on the way down.

Enjoy

A lovely website showing Cretan beaches in all their glory is called just that: Cretan Beaches                 ( http://www.cretanbeaches.com) It's really worth a look, even if just to daydream on a dull day.

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