Road-tripping...with your dog

I have been pretty lucky with Sage in that, from the start of our 'relationship', she has been happy to come along with me, wherever and however I was going.

But I've met a lot of dogs who are not so comfortable traveling by car - who get sick, or anxious or misbehave. I believe that almost all dogs can get used to almost any situation, as long as it has positive associations. Here are some tips I have been given by owners who've had a tough time getting their dogs on board:

• Don't force your dog into the car. Set aside plenty of time to get your dog used to the space. You can try doing this on a couple of occasions, just sitting in the car, playing, grooming, a few treats. Even doing this for 5-10 minutes, a couple of times, will reassure your dog that there is nothing to be afraid of. In this way, the space stops being threatening and starts to be associated with positive activities

• You can build this up by turning on the engine, but staying parked, so that your dog also gets used to some of the sounds and smells of the car, while still playing with them or stroking them

• Don't rush into a long distance journey. For the first few times, try short, fun trips to the local dog park, or round to see a dog-loving friend. Somewhere fun, so that your dog will associate the car with pleasurable activities. If your dog is nervous of cars, definitely avoid the vets on the first one or two trips in the car 

• Designate a space where your dog will always sit to travel. Whether that is in a cage in the back, on the back seat, or even down by the front passenger seat, get your dog into the routine of getting into the car and settling in the same, familiar spot. Lay a favourite blanket in the space, or bring a well-loved toy, so that the setting seems more like 'home'

• Avoid feeding your dog before car travel, especially before long journeys. Limit the amount of water they drink too. But, be sure to bring food and water, so that your dog can drink little and often along the way, and eat as soon as you reach your destination (creating another positive association) 

• Make sure there is plenty of air movement around the car. If your dog is likely to stick its head too far out of an open window, or possibly even make a bid for freedom, open more windows but just wide enough to cool down and let air in

• Make lots of rest stops along the way. If there is nowhere suitable, make sure you stop every hour or so for a quick pee, a little water, and a moment of quiet. If possible, make a stop somewhere your dog can have a run around and stretch out their legs

• If you dog is still sickly, having not eaten, with plenty of air movement and lots of rest stops, keep practising with shorter trips, don't give up, and put down an easily washable old sheet to protect your car 

Betty admiring the view from the car

Many people find travel carriers or cages are convenient, as they prevent  your dog from moving about, and function in the same way as a seatbelt - protecting your dog in case of an accident. TransK9 is a company based in the UK that produces a range of cages and cases for  protecting your dog on road trips.


You can also buy specially designed harnesses that attach to the seat belts in your car, so that your dog is safely strapped in, like these from Waggy Campers/Holiday Pet Products

The late Garby in her usual place for car travel

For boisterous dogs who won't settle while on the road, a good piece of advice from dog behaviourist/trainer Gwynne Lowther via Twitter : If your dog is stressed in the car, putting screens on windows or covering the crate has a calming effect just like it does with a bird!

Or you can fit a barrier to prevent your dogs jumping forwards and putting you all at risk, like these from US based company Pet Smart, which offer a wide range of barriers, from small ones that block the space between front seats, to full floor to roof permanent dividers. All are designed to allow interaction between dog and owner.

Sage, Poppy and Betty on a road trip

Finally, it goes without saying but I'm going to say it anyway - don't leave your dog unattended in a hot car. Even in the shade with the windows cracked, temperatures inside the car can get extremely high.

Go running ...with your dog

In both Crete and Cyprus, there are some amazing areas of natural beauty, nature trails, coastal paths etc. where you can hike all day with your dog off leash.  Within the towns, however, it's almost impossible to find somewhere to let your dog run around off leash. There are almost no dog parks in either Crete or Cyprus, and very few areas where you are allowed to give your dog the freedom to get the exercise they really need.

It's important for your dog to exercise fully, for weight control and physical well-being, as well as for their mental health. Walking around the streets on a leash is often not enough, especially for a young or energetic dog. 

Walking around the streets with my dog was not enough exercise for me either, but was enough of an excuse not to go and do something more active. 

So I started running with my girl, Sage. We have become regular jogging companions, and I thought I'd write a quick post about my experiences of running with my dog...

I keep Sage on a long leash if we are running on the streets, although this isn't very convenient for either of us. It is not very natural for her to maintain a steady running rhythm, and she constantly pulls ahead or stops to sniff something.

Whenever possible, I try to find an area with no cars and not too many people, so I can let her run at her own speed. It's a good idea to walk the route first, so you can see how busy the area is, whether there are families with young children who might be afraid of your dog, if there are any roads to cross, how long the route will be, and just generally look out for any possible hazards.

Stretching after a run... with my dog

I always carry a few things with me when I go running with my dog:

• Bag for poo collection
• Leash (just in case)
• A ball or stick to hold in her mouth to limit her scavenging
• Water and bowl (which I usually leave at the start/finish point)
• Couple of dog biscuits if it's a long or strenuous route

For myself as much as for her, I like to run in the evenings when it's not too hot. I always watch for signs that she is struggling (excessive panting, constantly sitting down, no sniffing/exploring etc), although I think she is fitter than I am! You know your dog, if you see that they are behaving strangely, stop and rest, or walk for a while.

In hotter conditions, carry more water and head for shadier routes.

Post-run drink

To make sure she is comfortable, I don't feed her for a few hours before running, and try to make sure she has drunk some water before we begin. I also try to wait for her to poo and pee before I start running, as she gets anxious if I don't wait for her (and I don't like to stop).

When running in parks or fields in the evenings, make sure your dog is wearing their collar against fleas/ticks, and that all medication is up to date.

When running in the dark, I carry a torch so that I can check that Sage is ok (and not eating anything she shouldn't be...). You can also find reflective collars and leads if there is a chance you may meet cyclists or traffic (I searched online and found lots of companies selling reflective leads, collars, patches etc, such as: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/dayglow.html).

There are loads of great products designed for active dogs - harnesses, packs so they can carry their own water when hiking, special boots to protect their feet on hard mountain trails... have a look at the Ruffwear UK range: http://www.ruffwear.co.uk/dog-gear/new-redesigned-products   and check out their Facebook page for inspiration on the limitless outdoor adventures you can have with your dog: https://www.facebook.com/RuffwearUK

Why travel with your dog?

Outside the airport at Larnaca, Cyprus

People look at me like I'm crazy when I say that I travel with my dog. The first questions I get asked are usually about the cost of plane tickets, then about whether I give her sedatives when flying. There are difficulties and expenses, of course, but I think the benefits of having your furry friend with you when you travel often outweigh the negatives.

Here are a few good reasons to go to the trouble of taking your dog with you when you travel...

Boarding the ferry at Xora Sfakion, Crete

Cost
It depends how long you are going for, but if you plan to be away for a couple of weeks (and don't have doting family to dog-sit), the cost of leaving your dog in a kennel can be pretty high. Sage has stayed for a weekend at our closest dog-hotel (http://www.petstopcyprus.com). There we paid around 12€ per day (at 30kg she falls in their 'medium-sized dog' price range).

The cost of traveling with your dog will depend on A) where you are going from/to  B) whether you are going by plane, ferry, car etc. C) the size and weight of your dog.

Less anxiety
If, like me, you are a neurotic 'pet parent', and you have to leave your dog at a dog-hotel, or even with friends/family, you will probably not completely relax until you are back home and reunited. I went to see the Pet Stop Cyprus dog-hotel. I spoke with the owner, who was lovely. I looked over the premises and saw clean cages, open spaces for exercise, all sorts of different animals the owner had rescued (cats, dogs, parrot, monkeys!). Everything there was fine. Better than fine. But the feeling I had when we dropped her off and left her sitting alone and anxious in a cage, and the doubt I had all weekend that I had done the wrong thing, and the desperation I had when we got stuck in traffic and were late to retrieve her...

European Pet Passport

On a boat along the South coast of Crete

Chance to give time and attention to your dog
Your holidays are a great chance to really spend time with your dog, without work and the daily chores that get in the way at home. If you are holidaying together, this is a perfect opportunity to put in some extra training time, and to spend more time walking around new cities, hiking in countryside, swimming in the sea etc.

Dogs need new smells and sounds in order to learn and develop. You don't need to leave the country to provide access to new stimuli, but traveling together is a good way for you both to make the most of new experiences and have a break from the everyday routines of home.

Car travel

Opportunity to meet like-minded people
Turning up to a new area with your dog can be a great way to meet new people. As with any group of people with shared interests, dog owners love to get together and share stories and advice.

Finding your way to the local dog park or dog beach, or simply doing the same walk a couple of times and getting to know the local dog walkers, often leads to new acquaintances. You can even research online first, as most communities have dog walking or dog training groups you can join. Some larger cities also organise dog shows and festivals, or charity events for the animal shelters.

At the dog park in Heraklion, Crete

Motivation to go places you might not otherwise visit
Just as at home, having a dog means you have to get up and go out walking whether you feel like it or not. The need to find places where your dog can exercise freely can be a great motivation to go out and explore a new area. Since moving to a town that is not very dog-friendly, here in Cyprus, I have taken  trips all over the island, looking for mountains to climb, gorges to explore, deserted coastlines and woodlands. Whether it is cold and rainy or baking hot, my dog needs a good run around every now and then, and that is the best motivation for me to go out and explore.

Clearing immigration at Larnaca airport, Cyprus

Gives you freedom

At work at archaeological excavation...with my dog

It is very convenient to have a dog who is used to travelling if you ever find that your situation changes - you move home (or country), or spend some time away from home traveling for work.

I was very lucky with Sage. She came along with me while I was working all over Crete, as well as camping trips and holidays, and never seemed bothered by car or ferry travel. I always try to bring things to remind her of home, and to give her as much time as possible, but she has adapted to a slightly nomadic life and really enjoys being in new places.


Life is just better when you're with your dog
Well, not much to say about this really. You'll either understand or you won't. I just know that I enjoy my holidays and travels much more when I'm sharing them with my dog, Sage.

Near Governor's Beach, Cyprus

Eat out at Hellas Taverna, Palaikastro... with your dog

Eating outside at Hellas Taverna

 The Hellas is one of the biggest tavernas in Palaikastro. It's located right on the central square of the village, with the associated hotel just behind on the street leading up to the square (I haven't found out yet whether the hotel is dog-friendly). I have eaten out here many times, as it is one of the favourite choices of the archaeologists at Palaikastro to get together for big group dinners.

The Hellas also serves breakfast and lunch, and is open (although with reduced opening hours) all through the winter. They serve a variety of salads, omelettes and pastas for a lighter lunch, as well as large range of traditional Cretan dishes (fish, stew, souvlaki, bean dishes etc). Prices here are typical for the area (lower than for most of the island) - I paid under 10€ for a big portion of meatballs in a tomato sauce with rice, salad and a large beer.

Dinner at Hellas Taverna

Sage at the Hellas Taverna

I have brought Sage with me to the Hellas on several occasions. Staff and owners here have always been very accommodating - on a visit in early Spring, we found a quiet corner to sit inside to escape the cold, while on a summer evening last year they had no problem with us sitting out on the busy terrace. I should say here that Sage is particularly well-behaved, doesn't bark and annoy other customers, and stays on her lead at my side.

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Sleep under the stars at East Tsigounas Beach... with your dog

Free camping on East Tsigounas Beach

I included this beach in my Top 5 beaches to visit with your dog post, a couple of weeks ago (http://bit.ly/KiaZRd). As I was looking through photos of a camping trip we had there a couple of years ago with my family, I realised it deserved a more thorough write up. While I was living in Heraklion, this was a favourite escape of mine. As long as you have a car, you can nip across the island and down to the south coast fairly quickly and easily at this point (via the Roman capital of Crete Gortyna).

I've been down to this part of the coast numerous times, sometimes just for a day trip, several times during the winter - just to escape the city and see some dramatic waves, and other times for a few days camping under the tamarisk trees that line the long, deserted, pebbly East Tsigounas (Perakis) Beach.

Facing West towards Lentas Beach 

While my sister and her family were visiting, in May 2011, we quickly realised that 3 adults, two small lively boys and one big energetic dog in a small, one-bedroom apartment in the centre of town was not going to be recipe for a relaxing, happy holiday. After a couple of days of barely managed tempers, we hired a (fairly massive) van, loaded it high with tents, sleeping bags, mattresses, provisions, clothes and toys, and set off...

I've never driven anything that size, and it took quite a bit of getting used to. Having the responsibility of my family's safety also didn't help the pressure. The afore-mentioned noisy young boys and energetic dog also weren't particularly conducive to an easy road trip. We bunny hopped out of Heraklion, stalling only once or twice, and we were off. We made a stop at one of my favourite secrets of Crete, but it has been closed the last couple of times I have been passed - a small cantina at the cross roads, just before the turning to Lentas from the highway, before the archaeological site at Gortyna. This was a great, dog-friendly stop off, as it is very informal (plastic chairs and tables arranged in the shade of a few trees, a bbq and a van selling souvlaki, beer and soft drinks). I should note that it is not very vegetarian brother-in-law friendly, however. 

The last part of the drive down towards Lentas is a bit hairy, in a large van, with noisy passengers. The road is quite windy, and incessantly plunges downhill (with some spectacular views of the coast along the way).

Braving the sea in May

Arriving at Lentas we made a short stop for yet more provisions at the small grocery shop there (which is open all year round). Then we found the dirt road that winds off to the east of the village at Lentas, and continues round the coast until the Petrakis Taverna and car park.                               

As it was May, we were the only fools camping on the beach, so we had our pick of the good sandy spots under the trees. Just as well, I had never seen such a huge tent as the one my sister and her family luxuriated in (while Sage and I squeezed into my one-man, 'pitch anywhere even on a mountain', crazy coffin-shaped canvas that I have since thrown out). 

We spent three days there in the end. Eating picnics, exploring the beach, swimming, playing with Sage. I couldn't get to sleep with her inside my tent, so had to tether her to a nearby tree and keep my tent door open so she didn't feel alone. At least that way we could both look at the stars as we fell asleep...

We also made the most of the two lovely tavernas down at the beach. My favourite, run by a very friendly and welcoming guy, is practically on the beach itself. There are hammocks and comfortable seats, nice music, quirky decorations, the most amazing salad I've ever eaten (we counted more than 25 ingredients, many grown there in the small garden by the beach), and even a horse (!) kept behind the taverna in a stable. I think there are rent rooms here, but the owner was always very welcoming of people camping and using his facilities - as long as you buy some refreshments I suppose. 

The second taverna is slightly more 'formal', but is still a lovely, relaxing, beach-side taverna. I felt more than comfortable to have Sage there with me. This taverna offers a more varied menu, including fresh fish as well as traditional Cretan dishes. 

Relaxing at the Beach Bar 

This beach is still quite quiet during the summer months, with many beach-goers preferring the slightly livelier beaches of Lentas and Dyskos nearby. The fact that it is not a sandy beach may also deter some visitors. Claiming a patch of shade under the trees maybe more difficult in the busier months of July and August, but you can always hide out in the beach bar, or bring your own shade along with you. I have always found this to be a good, dog-friendly place, and I really hope it stays that way!

Dangers of Crete (3) ...with your dog

Stray dogs are a sadly familiar sight in Greece. It's something that shocks many first time visitors. You see them curled up in shop doorways, playing with the owned dogs in the parks, sleeping on traffic islands or by the side of the road, wandering the high streets, even joining protests in Athens (like the famous dog Loukanikos 'Sausage' http://ti.me/1eYJ1Gd)!

Loukanikos the protesting stray
Photo: ARIS MESSINIS / AFP / GETTY IMAGES

The strays I've seen in Greece are almost always very docile, quite afraid of people, quiet and just trying to survive. And most of the people I know in Greece are very good about putting out food and water for the strays in their neighbourhoods, taking strays to animal welfare centres to be looked after, and adopting strays.

Stray at Heraklion Airport

However,  there has recently been an increase in the number of dogs abandoned by owners affected by the economic crisis and no longer able to support their dogs.

The results of this were all too clear when I visited Crete last summer after a few months away. I felt really nervous walking with my dog in some areas of Heraklion, due to the newly formed packs of stray dogs. I had seen small packs of strays in the past, for example up on the Venetian walls of the city in the early mornings, but I hadn't seen packs like this before. They were also more territorial and aggressive.

One such pack had made the area around the graveyard at Agios Constantinos (Heraklion) their home. One evening they were approaching us and barking so ferociously that we turned back, almost running, and returned home via a much longer route. My friend had a similar experience in this area when passing through with his dog.

I don't know what these dogs would do if we continued through their territory, probably nothing, but it is quite a scary sight. 

None of this is new, but I think the rapid increase in the numbers of abandoned dogs can be alarming when you are out and about with your dog.

• Quite obviously, if you have an encounter with a pack of stray dogs in one area, avoid passing through the same area again, dogs are territorial and usually have a 'base' somewhere
• Try to determine the danger before getting too close - clear signs such as barking, growling, and aggressive posture should make you think twice about passing a group of strays with your pampered pooch
• Don't run away, this might provoke a chase, just walk quickly and calmly in the opposite direction
• Your dog will probably be reading your feelings about the situation, so try to keep calm and be reassuring. Try to prevent them from barking and showing aggression 

If you want to report finding a stray animal, try getting in touch with one of the animal welfare organisations listed below:

• If you are looking for animal welfare events in Crete, or looking for contact details of groups in particular areas, a good place to start might be the Malia based group  - Cretan Animal Welfare:  info@crete4animals.gr
• In the Chania area, the Cretan Animal Protection group are active in re-homing abandoned animals from the Angels Ark Shelter: http://www.cretananimalprotection.com/default.html
• Animal Welfare in Siteia deals with re-homing and neutering programmes for strays in and around the Siteia area: http://www.animalwelfareinsitia.org/index.htm

• Gouves Animal Shelter (in the Heraklion region) does a great job re-housing strays in Central Crete: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Gouves-Animal-Shelter/215371411825716?ref=mf

• Friends of Animals, Rethymno is a small organisation working to re-house animals in the Rethymnon region: http://www.animals.rethymnon.org

I may have missed some organisations (my apologies, you are all doing fantastic work!), but you should be able to find a shelter or group in each area of Crete from the websites listed above.

5 best Cretan beaches...with your dog

As I'm day dreaming of summer, of swimming in the sea and camping on beaches, I thought I'd post my top 5 beaches to go to with your dog. This list took me ages as there are just so many to choose from, but I think I'm happy now with my choices.
Do write any beach suggestions in the comments box below!

1) Agios Pavlos, Chania region

View of Agios Pavlos from the sea

This beach is ideal for getting away from it all...with your dog. Its remote location (accessible by boat or 7 hour hike) means that it is never crowded, even in high season

There are plenty of trees and rocks for shade

A great little dog-friendly taverna right on the beach means you don't have to carry all your provisions with you, and you can hide out from the midday sun with a cool beer

Free camping is not officially permitted anywhere in Greece, but along this stretch of deserted coast you can feel quite comfortable pitching your tent for a few nights

By the church of Agios Pavlos on beach of same name

Be aware:

A trip to this beach needs some planning. It takes some time to get there, so wait until you have time to enjoy it

Except for the single taverna, there is nothing around this beach (the nearest shops are a 1.5 hour hike down the coast). Take whatever you will need for your visit - sun cream, books etc - and expect peace and relaxation

Don't give water from the bathroom to your dog to drink - it's (barely) desalinated sea water


2) Kedrodasos, Chania region

View from Kedrodasos Beach

This is one of the most spectacular beaches in Crete, full of juniper trees, sand dunes. Here the sea appears magnificently blue due to the white shells and sand on the sea bed (as at neighbouring Elafonissi)

There is plenty of shade from the juniper trees, and space for everyone to find a place to relax away from other people

Asleep in the shade on Kedrodasos Beach

Be aware:
This area is a protected nature reserve due to the fragile and rare trees, the dunes and the wildlife they support. Visitors should respect and preserve this unique environment

For the above reason, authorities have become strict about free-camping in this area - maybe better to find another area along this coast, or to rent a room/apartment

There are no facilities here to buy food/water. Carry any provisions in (and waste out) with you



3) Ligres Beach, Rethymno Region 

Playing on Ligres Beach

I love this stretch of coast, from Preveli up to Triopetra, and it's difficult to chose just one beach. Ligres beach has amazing golden sands and clear, deep water

From here you can explore along the coast by the sand dunes and amazing rock formations between Triopetra and Agios Pavlos

Being a bit remote (as most of the South coast beaches), Ligres never gets really busy. Plus, the sands stretch off into the distance, and you can easily find a spot where there is nobody around to get annoyed by your dog

The lovely Ligres Beach Taverna and Rent Rooms are dog friendly, whether you are just popping in for lunch, or you're looking for a relaxing get-away for a few days

On Ligres Beach

Be aware:
There is very little shade on this, or any of this series of beaches. If you're lucky you can claim the shady area by the small cave or rocks on Ligres Beach, otherwise, you should carry a day-tent or large umbrella

The South coast is notorious for high winds. If there is a strong North wind, it would definitely be a good idea to rent a dog-friendly room/apartment rather than risk camping






4) East Tsigounas (Petrakis), Heraklion Region

Late afternoon on Petrakis Beach

I'm sure this beach wouldn't be on most people's list, but hear me out...

Petrakis beach is a relatively short and easy drive from Heraklion, and makes a good quick(ish) escape from the busy centre of the island

The wonderful beach cafe-bar there was very accommodating in the past when we showed up with dogs and children and camping gear etc. They serve good basic meals and drinks. The owner didn't mind us using their facilities (bathroom, drinking water, hammock etc) whenever we wanted. We were also welcomed at the second taverna (which serves slightly more expensive and varied menu than the beach bar), the last time we were there with our dog

It is easy to camp there, below the tamarisk trees that grow along the beach, giving shade

Free camping at Petrakis Beach

You are within reach of the slightly busier Lendas, where you can buy provisions from one of several mini markets

Be aware:
I can't think of any negatives here. This beach does not have the breathtaking beauty of some of other Cretan beaches, but it is very quiet, peaceful and convenient



5) Xerokampos, Lasithi Region

View over Argilos Beach, Xerokampos

There are lots of beaches at Xerokampos to choose from, each with its own character and charm (one with white clay you can apply to your skin, one with wetland environment and rare species of wildlife, one with sun loungers and umbrellas, some smaller, more hidden away etc etc). With so much choice, you can find somewhere to relax with your dog out of the way of other beach-goers

The Agrogiali Taverna, behind Ambelos Beach, were very welcoming to us and our 2 dogs when we last visited

Very little traffic passes along this coastal road, and each bay feels quite enclosed, so you can let your dog have some freedom without too much worrying

Walking round to Argilos Beach

Be aware:
There are few trees along this stretch of coast, so almost no shade at all. Carry a day-tent or umbrella big enough for you and your dog if you plan to be out in the midday sun